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India: A Land Of Contrasts

12/10/2015

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This illustration came from a children's educational magazine, but it shows traditional dress
If you look at a topographical map of India, mountains, valleys, plains, even seashores crowd the country. An incredible diversity thrives in India, which made me reexamine why travel educates. We take our own culture and measure our experience against what is familiar to us.
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This was true when my husband and I arrived in New Delhi at four in the morning. What surprised us most besides the hundreds of people trying to get through immigration at that time in the morning was security. The Indian Army operates security for the airport conducting personal searches and luggage investigation. Armed infantrymen stand outside the exits checking identification and monitoring cars. We think surrendering our water bottle is a hardship in the US. The Indian people undergo a serious of searches without grumbling.
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Thinking of driving in India? You might want to leave that to the locals.
Outside the airport, the driver hurries us across several walkways to get us to his vehicle. The SUV we climb into is smaller than what I’m accustomed to. In fact, all the vehicles are smaller, especially the trucks. Out on the road, groups of people gathered alongside the road, a few have stands, while others stand conversing with one another. Several cars, trucks decorated with tinsel and tassels, and tiny three-wheel compressed gas rickshaws carry on an erratic dance crossing lanes, blinking lights, and sounding horns. Adding to the chaos is the scooter drivers who challenge death by riding mere centimeters from the large vehicles as they weave through traffic.
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Our car’s headlights create twin beams into the night. The thick haze I first dismissed as fog is smog. My first hint was that the scooter riders wrap scarves around their mouths and a few have cold masks similar to those donned by individuals with compromised immune systems. This is a tiny facet from one city.
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Made In India Restaurant, which is located in the Radisson Blu, Noida.
At our hotel, the uniformed staff hurries to accommodate us even though we arrived very late. Small oil burners squat near the elevators scenting the air with a rich exotic aroma. Overstuffed lush furniture, a white grand piano, and colorful art crowd the lobby creating an air of opulence.  

What did I know of India before our visit, not a great deal besides people wash in the Ganges River, cows wandered freely in the streets, and beggars lurked around every corner ready to rush an obvious tourist. How true were my initial perceptions garnered from an outdated geography film from middle school? Actually many people do use the river as their personal laundromat and bathing station. This is a misleading because there are several classes within society. A growing middle class in India often has several servants. A man at the same pay level as my husband has five servants. This amazed us since we can’t afford any. Certain jobs are beneath the higher castes/classes of people thus they hire people to do those jobs.

On our trip to Taj Mahal, we saw several cows wandering the street looking reasonably well fed. Our guide assured us these cows belonged to someone, but roamed at will. Occasionally some herders would show up moving the cows in a general direction. The cows were beef cows as opposed to milk cows, which means they are not slaughtered in India. Eating beef is against the prevailing Hindu faith, which means it isn’t available anywhere. There may be some places selling it, but we didn’t run across them.
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Cow at rest
As for the beggars, I’m sure they existed, but we only encountered one woman with a child begging. She followed me as we walked to the nearby mall touching my sweater and instructing her child to do so too. Our guide and friends warned us not to give money to beggars. This experience tore at me because I wanted to give the woman money even to the point of looking for her later. What I didn’t realize because of the caste system and because she was on the lowest rung, locals would give her money not to touch them.
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Most people not familiar with India might think it was a land of beggars. Impoverished people do live in sheet metal and tarp shacks. However, there is also a large, vibrant working class. No matter how humble their job maybe they arrive in pressed clothes ready to work. 
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Photo courtesy of MoreVisas. Com
In fact, the average Indian employee dressed better than your blue-collar American employees did. The males sported ironed buttoned down shirts, slacks, and sometimes sandals. What you rarely saw were jeans, t-shirts, and sneakers. When you did, it was on younger males trying to look more hip. Those in higher-level jobs wore tailored suits with matching ties, handkerchiefs, and if Sikh, turbans. The men always shave unless they sported a beard, which they kept groomed. The women dressed in a variety of clothes, but mainly of an Indian influence with colorful draping fabrics, full makeup, and an excess of jewelry. Most notable was the absence of leg revealing dresses, low cleavage tops, or tight pants.
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The  school uniforms changed as the children aged. Young boys could wear shorts, but graduated to pants. The older boys wore ties and often crested blazers. The girls started out in school skirts reminiscent of parochial, but moved on to an outfit that covered the legs. The older girls’ uniforms were more Indian in nature with a long tunic, loose pants, and often a scarf.  The teachers didn’t wear uniforms, but dressed more formally than teachers I’ve worked with. 
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Photo courtesy of AWCCS Schools
Our hotel, which was part of an international chain, did have women dressed in the corporate suit, which had a hemline above the knee. Appearance is very important to the average person or at least the commercials based on fashion, body spray, stretch mark remover, and skin whitener gave that impression. Watching Indian television gave a more balanced impression of the people even if it was assembled from news, commercials, cartoons and soap operas.

Family and faith are paramount to the average individual. Outside of that, priorities depend on the person. Although, most Indians value their jobs and even report a high level of contentment at work. Some Americans are irritated about jobs outsourced to India, but there are several major companies in India that now own interests in American businesses too.

Every Indian child learns English so he or she can be competitive in the world of business. Indians often structure their workday to coincide with the United States time zones. Employees often work twelve to eight and dine as late as ten in the evening in an effort to work with their American counterparts. Depending on their job, it can be standard to work seven days a week with an occasional week off for weddings or festivals.
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It is easy to think of India as what it used to be from the spice trade, British rule, and historical edifices. The country has developed into an attractive business proposition with an unlimited work force. Skyscrapers, apartment buildings, parking garages and malls are under construction everywhere. The India I encountered was not the one I expected.
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This was the view on almost every street in Noida.
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